Three nights in Newcastle, New South Wales

Newcastle New South Wales as seen from Nobby's Lighthouse.

Some Australian cities – Hobart, Melbourne, Adelaide – make it so easy to fall in love with them. Others… well, others make you work a little harder to uncover their charms.

Until recently, all I really knew of Newcastle, a coastal city in New South Wales around 150 kilometres north of Sydney, was that it holds the title of Australia’s biggest coal port. I’d seen the footage of courageous climate protestors in kayaks, blockading the harbour and preventing the movements of the 250-metre-long bulk carriers that head out into the Tasman Sea, carrying coal to China, Japan, and elsewhere in Australia.

We have started a lovely tradition in our family of taking it in turns to spend a weekend of the school holidays in a new city with DorkySon. He and DorkyDad went to Canberra; he and I went to Adelaide; and then he and DorkyDad went to Melbourne. Last weekend, he and I went to Newcastle. Or Newy, as I now know the locals refer to it.

I had wondered how prominent the heavy industries would be. The road in to Newcastle from the airport on Friday afternoon provided a quick and easy answer – very. We passed huge bulk carriers, coal conveyor belts and storage silos, production facilities for explosives and plastics and fertilisers. As our cab made its way along Hunter Street to our hotel in the East End, passing what felt like literally hundreds of shuttered shopfronts and empty buildings, DorkySon and I exchanged glances. What had we let ourselves in for?

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3 days and 50,000 steps in Adelaide

DorkySon and I have just got back from Adelaide, and my tender mama heart is full.

He turns 15 next month, so hopefully we still have a year or two more of family holidays. But even so, time is starting to feel like a precious commodity, and three full days of his company was a delight.

Last summer, DorkyDad took DorkySon to Canberra for a few days – compensation for a school camp that was cancelled during COVID-19 lockdowns. This year it was my turn and, given the choice of any city in Australia, he went for the city of churches. Although not, actually, for the churches.

(Just for the record, I am well aware that I got a better deal than DorkyDad. And I’ve been reminded of that. More than once.)

I kept an eye out for reasonably priced flights – and at some point late last year I got lucky in a Happy Hour Sale – so on the final weekend of the Tasmanian school holidays, we found ourselves at Hobart Airport. Bags checked in, digital boarding passes saved on our phones, and absolutely spoiled for choice with delicious dinner options.

That last bit might be an exaggeration. DorkySon had a pasta salad from Liv Eat, I had a rice salad from Liv Eat, and we split a KitKat on the plane. It did the job.

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Dorky Family Travels: the final instalment

Ten years ago, when we left the UK to move to Australia, we got a ride to Heathrow with a driver called Malcolm. It was a bit of a squeeze getting our massive suitcases into his car – but we’d hired him a few times before for trips to the airport, and it was hard to imagine choosing someone else for this big, emotional final drive.

Malcolm and DorkySon had always enjoyed a good chat. DorkySon was still into trucks rather than planes at that point, and his favourites were the big green and red Eddie Stobarts – a pretty common sight on the M25. Malcolm used to give DorkySon a heads up when he saw one coming, just to make sure he didn’t miss it.

Not long after we’d arrived in Tasmania, a parcel arrived in the mail. It was a model Eddie Stobart truck in a display box, that Malcolm had sent over for DorkySon.

It is astonishing, and lovely, how kind people can be.

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Dorky Family Travels Part 3: Harris

There are three Loganair flights leaving Edinburgh Airport in the space of an hour… and only two check-in desks open. When we finally reach the front of the line, I am keen for things to go quickly and smoothly.

 “Do you have any dangerous goods?” asks the check-in agent.

 Yes!” responds DorkySon, with great enthusiasm.

 DorkyDad and I look at him in horror. 

 You do?” says the check-in agent, eyebrow raised.

Hang on, hang on,” says DorkySon. “Did you ask me if everything is good?” 

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Dorky Family Travels Part 2: Edinburgh

I love Edinburgh so much.

Ten years living in Hobart may have knocked Auld Reekie off the top spot in my favourite cities list. But as the place where I went to uni, fell in love, had a baby, and made many lifelong friends, it will always be somewhere I want to revisit.

Last time we were back in Edinburgh, in 2018, I found the whole thing a little disconcerting. Perhaps not enough time had passed since living there, or perhaps my roots in Hobart weren’t quite so deep at that point, but whatever the cause I found it hard to straddle the line between local and tourist. It almost felt too familiar, strolling around the streets of Marchmont and popping into Margiotta’s for a Guardian and a lottery ticket.

This time round, I had no such issues. It was a pure joy to be back. I was definitely there as a tourist – just one with pals to see and no need of the Google Maps app.

We stayed near the Meadows on a beautiful, tree-lined street where squirrels sipped from birdbaths and schoolkids laughed under the window as they walked or scootered to school. DorkySon couldn’t believe how dingy the tenement stair was; I couldn’t believe how clean and well-lit it was compared to every shared stair of my student days! Not only did the main door lock work, it had a soft close mechanism so there was no door slam soundtrack throughout the night.

That’s not to say there was no discombobulation – but that had more to do with jetlag than location. On our first night, deep in dreamland and grateful to finally be fully horizontal, I woke up to DorkyDad fluffing up his pillows, searching for the light switch, and readying himself for coffee.

“Wow, he said. “That was one of the great sleeps of my life.”

“Mate,” I replied, peering at my phone screen. “Go back to sleep. It’s two in the bloody morning.”

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